Your shopping cart is empty!
Please click the question below to show the answer.
Whilst all our oaks are pre-finished these finishes do diminish. It is best to assume that some kind of application may be required and we can advise you on the product best suited to the board you have purchased. Ultimately, as long as you have employed a professional fitter, they will get a very quick understanding when handling the wood if it would benefit from a re-treatment to give your floor its best start in life. We do not sell any fixing or maintenance products for our engineered oak floors, instead we will provide links to products from leading manufacturers.
Colour fade: All oak flooring products go through colour development within the first 6 months of being laid, it is during this time that rugs, furniture etc. should be moved around to allow sunlight to hit the previously covered areas of your floors. This will equalize the UV and IR light exposure and even out the fading process so a consistent colour will be achieved within the entire room. It is good practice to remove rugs from your oak floor whenever you can, for example if you go away on holiday, giving it even more opportunity to equalize out. It makes sense that if you can keep sunlight off your floor, it won’t fade as much. Drapes, curtains, shutters or blinds are some of the best defences against fading hardwood floors. If you keep them closed on the side of your house when the sun is hitting the windows it will drastically cut down on any UV and infrared light reaching the floor.
General advice: Hoover/sweep as normal, mop up any spills with a damp cloth and keep your mopping to a minimum. Mop as dry as possible using a damp not saturated mop and never allow any surface water to stand. Bona produce a very good wood floor spray mop that is very economical and can be used to both spot clean or more thoroughly clean your oak floor.
The correct answer depends on your sub-floor. Briefly: if the sub-floor is concrete/screed, it must be dry and level then the best way forward is to fully bond the engineered oak board to the sub-floor by using a suitable adhesive. This dries like a hard rubber and never becomes brittle over time. If the sub-floor is timber, then you can either install as above using a suitable adhesive though the sub-floor does require priming first with a weak solution of PVA glue. Alternatively, if the board is 20mm thick, you can secret nail/screw the boards to the timber sub-floor. We only recommend a floating installation (not directly secured to the sub-floor and using an underlay) if you have different substrates within the same installation e.g. old timber substrate running into a new screed sub-floor. Please note that our Herringbone oak floors must be solidly bonded to the sub-floor and cannot be floated.
Only if you have two separate substrates as outlined above. You may have specific issues that require a specialist underlay e.g. noise reduction, insulation and only your installer can guide you here. Please note we do not stock any fixing products for engineered oak including underlay.
Our range contains predominantly 20mm thick boards though some are available in 15mm. If the board is to be fully bonded then either thickness is suitable. If the board is to be floated then both are suitable however the 20mm thick board will have less movement overtime so is preferable. If you are secret nailing or secret screwing the board then only 20mm is suitable. 20mm is considered a structural board so these can be installed directly onto joists.
Yes. There are two common types of underfloor heating: wet, which is piped and part of the central heating system and then electric which is separate from the central heating system. Wet underfloor heating is considered a primary source i.e. it replaces radiators whilst most electric systems are secondary i.e. you still need radiators. Engineered oak can be used with both.
